Hubs shored her up from the back.
Now those of you that have seen my other stuff, know I usually preserve the wood tops. Not happening on this baby. Why people insist on carving into their furniture or leaving it outside to get wet and warped is beyond me....I sanded quite a bit and put a fresh coat of stain on the top and drawers. This was before I thought about what color I was going to do. Enter Milk Paint! This paint loves bare wood and this baby was stripped to bare bones. Perfectamundo!
Ready?? Put on some sunglasses.......
Cobalt Blue is my all time fave color.
I have it throughout my yard......
This is one of our three koi ponds. The outside of our house is a Mediterranean/Spanish style and this pond is in the front patio/courtyard . I had the wall stuccoed and then painted it this vibrant cobalt. The rest of the house is a rich gold with hints of terra-cotta. I know a lot of people just cringe at these colors. But hey, I love bold! My yard is filled with flowers and plants with vibrant foliage. I'm just coordinating with nature!
Cobalt color
glass mosaic
tile line the
back drop
for the
waterfall.
To the right
is the largest
of the ponds.
There is a
sprinkling
of cobalt
in the pots and flowers around the pond.
Just a pic of one of one of my favorite guys. No, he isn't cobalt. I like him anyway.
Back to my dresser......
Painting with milk paint is almost identical to chalk paint. I'm used to mixing my homemade chalky paint, so mixing this was no biggie. Simple directions. The rep at the company told me it will keep in the refrigerator for a few weeks. It will thicken, so just add some water before using. Good to know!
So. This is the second coat. The first coat was, um, scary. The wood just soaked it up. I had an "oh-oh" moment. Until I read that is normal. The 2nd coat goes on like a thick latex paint and you can actually see the color. It dries just like chalk paint.
This is during the 2nd coat. Just so you know, Milk Paint will not "fill in" any cracks or divots, you must apply wood filler to those prior to painting.
This paint dries super fast. You can seriously knock the whole thing out from start to sealing in a few hours. Instead of sealing with wax, the manufacturer recommends natural tung oil (or their burnishing paste). It's completely non-toxic, same as the milk paint.
Tung oil is very thick so I thinned it with their citrus solvent (also non-toxic) to make it spreadable. You can use mineral spirits if you want, but that will remain toxic until the spirits evaporate. It's the same with the paste wax. The solvents are added to make the wax pliable. After the solvents evaporate, you are left with your hardened wax.
The oil goes on very easily. You put on a thick layer, let it soak in for about 30 mins, and wipe off.
Depending on how porous the wood is, will determine how many coats of oil. It's a lot easier than waxing. However, you can still apply a coat of wax over the oil finish if you desire a more polished appearance. If you look at their website, they give you how-to's on their products.
The tung oil is great for many things. It revives any type of wood. The tung oil they sell at Real Milk Paint company, is 100% pure oil. I know you have all seen the tung oil, Danish oil, etc, at HD or Lowes,,,read the label,,,it says tung oil finish, Danish Oil Finish.....very little if any natural tung oil or Danish oil. That stuff is filled with solvents and other nasty smelling stuff. Don't ever use that finish stuff inside of drawers. The smell will transfer onto clothing or whatever you are keeping inside.
both with the ultramarine. When I sanded, I got peeks of the turquoise and cobalt (they call it
cobalt but it looks like aqua). These pics really don't do it justice. The layering effects are
I will be lining the drawers with this fabric.
Thanks for visiting.
linking to all my faves below
Original article and pictures take makemeprettyagain.blogspot.com site
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